Cragganmore 12 years (20cl 40%)
A 20cl bottle of a recent Speyside classic. A slightly herbal, meaty nose with a spicy malty fullness tells you, straight off the bat, that this...read more
A 20cl bottle of a recent Speyside classic. A slightly herbal, meaty nose with a spicy malty fullness tells you, straight off the bat, that this isn’t going to be just another bland Speyside. It carries notes of honeycomb and heather, becomes delicately smokier as it sits in the glass, and surprises with savoury notes like steak spices. There there is the full, firm body laden with savoury cereal - bran and rye flake muesli with plenty chewy raisins and dates - and a sheen of freshly-varnished wood. Plenty dried fruits making themselves felt with a little chewing, but distinctly lacking in sugars: these apricots and apple peels are very dry indeed. A slight bitter orange tang in the finish resolves into lasting gentle embers. The malt is like hay beginning to ferment, the fruits like slightly burnt fruitcake, the smoke like rough leather and perfumed wood on an open fire. It is easy to see why Cragganmore is seen as grade A material for blenders: its flavours are unique and complex, but hugely bold and robust, perfect for cutting through the grain and swamping the palate. If there is a fault, it is that it it’s so rich that it’s difficult to drink too much of in a single sitting. Few 12-year-olds are as multi-layered as this. Recommended as a next step after Glenfiddich or Dalwhinnie, but more than merits revisiting by malt veterans.
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